Range Rovin’

“Top Chef” finalist Bryan Voltaggio owns it, 30 cooks in nine kitchens man it, and a buzzin’ crowd fills its 300 seats (and bars for oysters, pizza, pastries and cocktails). Yet for all the glitz of Range, this aerie within curved-glass walls at Chevy Chase Pavilion, Voltaggio wants the focus on the food. To that end his market-responsive menu lists to-share plates like rotisserie (fall-apart with a fork) chicken, crudos like striped bass ceviche, pastas like chestnut ravioli with Surryano ham and buttery “everything” potatoes.

The finale? A dazzling confections cart with chocolate ganache tart, goat cheesecake with quince, Meyer lemon custard with passion fruit or deconstructed apple crisp. And from a sweets buffet: in-house truffles, bon bons, brittles, biscotti and lollipops.

Jean Lawlor Cohen